Alas! After being back home a week, waking up at 3am most mornings, and drinking a ton of caffeine I can now say that I am back on my own time zone and a normal sleep schedule.  Good thing I leave this Wednesday for another trip!  I wouldn’t want my body to get comfortable you know!

I thought I would write this post to review our trip and pass along some advice to those of you that may be interested in a similar trip of your own.

Using a Tour Company

We could not have done our trip if it wasn’t for the help of Arthur Allison and his team at In Search of Africa. https://www.insearchofafrica.com/

We became familiar with Arthur through an ex business partner of mine who did a safari for our family members.  The way I would put it is that Arthur was like the MC of our trip.  He met with us, talked about what we wanted to do, and then put together suggestions and camps for us.  They worked with a local subcontractor called Wilderness Safaris (if Arthur was the MC they were the singers) who guided us through every step of the way.  I would highly recommend booking through In Search of Africa for a number of reasons:

1. You don’t have to worry about picking the best camps
2. You get to see areas that are in smaller reserves not the gigantic ones that the rest of the tourists go through
3. You get to go through countries other than South Africa (nothing it is wrong with SA, just felt more adventurous to go beyond)
4. You don’t have to worry about booking private charters, tours, aligning guides, etc.
5. You get to enjoy more of your vacation

Arthur and his director of Zimbabwe activities, Neal Leach, were extremely attentive and available during the trip when we needed them (and when we had connection!). As for payment, I paid somewhere around 20% at the initiation of our discussion so that they could reserve the camps and then the remaining 80% of the fee a month or so before travel. I guess the best summary of their service came from my son Nathan when wrapping up the trip “It wasn’t a good trip dad, it was a fantastic trip.” I think In Search of Africa didn’t just do a good job but a fantastic job for our once in a lifetime vacation

The Camps

Victoria Falls Safari Lodge:

This was our first stop on the continent and I am glad it was as it was a good transition from the cold and city life of Germany to the summer and open air of Africa. The lodge is not a huge hotel (probably less than 30 rooms) so there is plenty of privacy and it is quiet.

They have great view points and a wonderful pool for kids. Tami and I could lay their with our drinks and watch the kids jump endlessly in to the pool. All the while looking off the deck to see what animals were drinking from the nearby watering hole.

We had no issues with bugs even though we had netting around our bed. There is an all you can eat breakfast buffet in the morning and we did dinner at the restaurant there the first night. All the menu items are what you would see at a hotel in a big city, you have to go in to town to get the adventurous stuff. They also have a dinner show (very similar to a Hawaiian Luau) called the Boma every night which you must do (and was included as part of our package).

There is not TV anywhere that I could see but there was a wireless network for the times we needed some technology. The lodge had shuttles going in to town every hour which were very helpful. I would highly recommend if you have time going in to town as this may be your only chance to go in to a village. We got to eat a restaurant that had local and adventurous food and we got to go to the barter market. The prices we paid there at the barter market were 50-75% less than the gift stores we saw a few blocks away (not to mention all other stores). Bring cash and get ready to get heckled (politely of course). The kids weren’t used to it so they got a very quick lesson in how to say no thank you.

Little Makalolo:

This was by far the smallest camp we went to on our trip. I liked it a lot because it reminded me of one of our boy scout summer camps.

The rooms were all spacious and beautiful but I will say of all the camps this one certainly had the most bugs. Bugs in the room, bugs in the bed, bugs at every meal…BUGS! You have to sort of expect that though right I mean you are in the wilderness! It was never anything concerning just a little annoying. The pool is a small circle shape but also faces a watering hole.

The meals at this camp were probably the least extravagant of the trip (that’s not a bad thing just the other camps had more variety, choices, and better food).

They did have a special chocolate birthday cake for me the night of my birthday which was special.

This was also the only camp where our guide had to have gun with him when we walked around at night. Given the drought in Zimbabwe we definitely got our clearest nights there and sunniest days. I love the little firepit area they had there too right out in the open.

Our guide was Patrick and he did a fantastic job with us and he really tried to help us see all the animals we could. The staff did make me a drink or two from the bar but we mostly found ourselves making our own drinks (felt like home!).

Chitabe Lediba:

This camp was much larger than Little Mak and felt a lot more like a luxury get away. We really enjoyed it.

We didn’t have any bug problems at all. We were greeted with every entry and exit in to camp with a warm towel to wash off with which was a nice tough. They had a special song and dance show for us the first night we were there (only on Monday nights). All of the food at Chitabe was delicious and plentiful. I think they had the best food of the camps we went to.

The rooms were well appointed and gave us a chance to spread out a little. We were at the room closest to the lounge and dining hall so it was an easy walk.

They had a great pool there that was big enough for the kids to jump in. Phindley was our guide and we loved his willingness to go off road to find animals in the distance.

Little Vumbura: This was probably the prettiest camp we stayed at as it is surrounded by water. It certainly felt the closest to wildlife.

This camp also had great food and seemed to have more activities. It also had a gift shop.

You have to take a boat ride from the safari jeeps to the island which was always a welcome break to be on the water. It had a smaller pool but still big enough to play. I felt the most outdoors at this camp because of the way the windows face you are almost always looking outside.

They were also the biggest rooms we had and had a very nice porch to sit on in the morning or night to view all the nearby animals.

Safari Schedule

The safari schedule is not for the faint of heart.  I was told those traveling in the winter months (Jun-August) get up even earlier than we did.  At Vic Falls you can set your schedule really, but at the other camps the schedule was like this:

5am wakeup call:  This varied across camps but was usually a recitation of “Good morning.  Good morning.  Good morning”.  Not as obnoxious as my phone alarm by any means

5:30 you walk to breakfast.  Originally I was told this was just going to be coffee and biscuits but all the camps at least had eggs and sausage going for us.  You could eat as light or heavy as you want.

6am-10:30am – safari drive, on most drives we stopped around 9ish for coffee/tea which the guide brought with us

10:30am – 11:30am – very big lunch/brunch spread

11:30-3/4:  Play time.  Little Mak play time ended at 3 the other camps it was 4.  I obviously liked the 4pm time better.  You could do whatever you wanted during this time.  We were usually so tired that we took naps and we made the boys take naps too.  When they couldn’t they either wrote in their journal about the trip or read their books.  We usually were out for an hour or 90 minutes.  We also spent the extra time by the pool.

3 or 4:  Every camp had afternoon tea.  You had both cold and hot options to choose from and there were normally some light snacks.

3:30 or 4:30 to 7:30/8:  safari drive, usually around the beginning of twilight we would stop and have a beverage with some light snacks

8 – bedtime:  dinner, fire, wine, cigar.  You are normally so tired you can barely stay up past 9:30pm or so.  But I loved the campfire, an Opus X, and some flavorful African red wine.

Despite the rigor it really doesn’t feel like a chore.  You are having so much fun you barely pay attention to it.  And if you are really tired you can always skip or shorten a session.  We had one night drive and one morning drive that we requested to be an hour shorter so we could sleep a bit more and everyone was happy to accommodate.  Get your naps in for sure.  I would recommend lunch, beverage, pool, beverage, nap, tea then safari!

General Tips

• Take some toilet paper from your room and carry it with you when you go out on drives.  You don’t want to learn this on your own.  Some guides will carry some and others will not.  Better to be safe than sorry.
• Bring a lot of USD in small denominations.  USD is king in the countries we went.  First of all Zimbabwe had several taxes.  We were initially told that there would be a $30 a person entry fee in to Zimbabwe which there was.  They would only take the crisp and clean 20s I brought though.  I had several that were older, had been folded, or were slightly faded and they would not accept them (its legal currency).  Thankfully I had gone to the bank before I left so I had several fresh ones.  When we transferred through Victoria Falls to other camps it was $15 a person to Little Mak and then $50 a person when went to Chitabe.  The documents said we were responsible for our own departure taxes but it did not prepare us for the amount.  And we were told cash only.  Thankfully one of our guides was able to find a credit card machine for us to use on the departure from Vic Falls the last time.  We tipped our guides $15 a drive (so $30 a day) and the camp staff $15 a day.  I think that is over what is recommended but we enjoy rewarding good service.  Finally we went in to the village by the Victoria Falls lodge and bought a ton of souvenirs at a local market which was cash only.  All in all I would recommend at minimum taking $100 out in 1s, 5s, and 10s.  Then depending on your group size and what you want to do more.  I took about $1000 over and only came back with $120 or so.  Too close for my taste.  So whatever you think you will need bring 20% more and remember most places do not have change so bring small bills.
• Bring your own printed itinerary and if traveling with children their birth certificates.  We were told they would be good to have not have to have but we needed both.  We did not receive a full itinerary upon arrival but did get one a few days later for the whole trip once we brought it up. Luckily I had a print out from home so I was able to give our guides and fellow travelers a bit of information of where we were going.  We went through transit in South Africa so they didn’t need to see the kids birth certificates but coming in and out of Botswana it was required.  I also had to have a note from my ex giving approval for me to travel with the kids without her.  I would suggest also bringing a printed copy of your airline itinerary which includes the ticket number.  This also came in useful and most of the trip you will be either out of wireless or cell so a printed copier was easier to access.
• By all means bring two important items – a good camera and a good set of binoculars.  You will not regret it.  You can take pictures with your phone but you can tell on this blog which were phone pics and which were camera pics.  I got Tami a Nikon D3500 camera that came with two lenses for Christmas (such a good husband).  It did the trick and took amazing photos.  You get so close to the animals you really don’t need a huge zoom lenses in my opinion.  The camera also has blue tooth technology so when we were back in cell reception would could download all of our photos to our phones.  Constant Facebook and Instagram posting here we come!  Speaking of which is the dopamine in your brain in short supply lately?  Feeling a little blue?  African safari photos are killer social media posts guaranteed to get tons of likes, loves, “awwws”, and envy.  The camera was on sale at Costco for $300 so it was an easy choice.  Also, my kids and ex-wife (mighty nice of her) got me a Nikon (they should pay me for this advertising) Monarch 12×42 binoculars and they were great.  I mainly used them to see birds in the distant or up close better as they were the ones that typically fled.  I also used it to look around trees and bushes for the more secluded animals.  
• Nap when you can.  You are really tired at night and if you like to stay up a bit by the fire or to talk with your fellow guests a nap will give you that extra power.
• There is a ton of transit time on a trip like this.  Make sure to bring a few books (I brought two) and have books on tape available (I had 3).  When you are on the shorter flights it helps to have someone really monotone reading to you in order to calm your nerves.
• Speaking of calming nerves, I did ask my doctor for some anxiety meds which he prescribed a few of.  He also had me buy some Imodium for our stomachs (we did use this a bit) and some anti-bacterial meds in case we got sick.  We didn’t use the anti-bacterial meds on this trip but we did use all of them during our honeymoon trip so a good thing to have.  Ask your doc for the specific meds.  We also carried some ibuprofen.  We SHOULD have also brought some Claritin and would suggest you get some as well.  Also plenty of sunblock but each camp had a ton of bug spray so I don’t think you will need that.  Also bring plenty of chapstick. Finally, Tami had me buy this motion sickness bands that go around your wrist “Sea-Bands”.  I am not sure if they help but the placebo at least but me more at rest.
• The booze selection – this isn’t Manhattan folks.  Don’t expect top shelf liquor anywhere.  If you like brown like me, then you are going to be drinking either Jack Daniels or some whiskey you have never heard of before.  Which was fine by me.  The liquor is pretty basic I would say probably your well liquor at most bars.  I typically had gin and club soda (because I am healthy and not weak for sugar……that’s a lie btw) but the huge surprise for me on the trip was how good the red wines were.  I am not a big wine person but I loved the Syrah’s and pinots that they had.  The merlots suck but I hate merlots anyway.  So my suggestion – wine with the meals and the fire, gin or vodka by the pool or in the morning with your juice!
• Bring protein bars and some candy.  My lovely wife brought a small box of Kirkland Signature protein bars on the trip which saved us a few times when we missed meals or had an extra long drive.  I would suggest you get the same.  The meals in camp have a ton of tasty breads, fruits, and veggies so the bars helped us build our resting muscles.
• Clothing – I could spend a ton of time on this but I won’t because I don’t like shopping and I rarely like discussing clothes unless it is wacky sports coats.  Since it is winter here in the states luckily REI and Field and Stream were having sales on their summer clothing.  We bought a few pairs of pants and shirts that had zippers on them so we could make them short sleeve or long sleeve.  Clutch.  Also make sure you have plenty of pockets on the pants you will use them for devices or snacks.  Clutch.  The morning rides are cold so I would suggest a light pair of long underwear too ((I buy the 32 degree brand at….none other than yes you guessed it….Costco).  You are weight restricted to 44 pounds TOTAL on your trip so you need to be careful about what you pack.  These types of clothes proved versatile and useful.  I would also bring a wicking and t shirt or two that has sunblock if possible.  Tami wishes she would have brought a summer dress for our evening dinners.  The brands we bought were REI, Coleman, and Field and Stream.  Keep in mind the camps (not Victoria falls) offer free laundry so you aren’t wearing the same thing over and over every day.  You do have to wash your own underwear though so bring a packet or two of Tide liquid to wash in the sink.  Finally the kids brought fanny packs which were awesome in hiding their cameras and candy.
• All camps had running hot and cold water and toilets.  Most showers were outside and most toilets faced a screen window to nature.  Every camp had a plentitude of filtered water and provided refillable water bottles for us.  Also for those of you who have traveled to Asia and South America, you CAN flush toilet paper down the toilet.  I don’t know why that is such a big deal for me but everyone has their tastes!
• All camps had at least one use electrical outlet but I would suggest bringing a UK adaptor as those were easier to find.
• Although most people don’t take malaria tablets we did.  We did have a choice of pills to take so we selected the Atovaquone which was the most expensive but also had the least side effects.  We took our pills with breakfast in the morning.  Only on the first night did I have the terrifying and gory dreams that most people seem to have on these tablets.  After that I didn’t notice anything.  Better safe than sorry.
• Bring hand sanitizer.  Each person should have a small bottle.  We used all of ours.
• My wife typically has to bring her own shampoo and conditioner but she loved all of the ones provided for us on our trip.  She said they were all top of the line.
• When to go?  We went during the middle of their summer (January) which is the middle of wet season.  We didn’t have an issue with rain save for one day or two.  The issue in the wet season is that it is harder to see animals because of the plentitude of water.  In the dry season there are only a few pools in each park so finding the animals is a lot easier.  The problem with dry season (May-August) is that it is the most crowded, the most expensive, and also the most “Dead”.  The landscape isn’t as green and lush and you will see a lot more dead animals that have died due to lack of water.  We saw a ton of dead elephants in Zimbabwe due to the drought but we also saw our most animals there!  Our guides said June is a great time to come before everything gets too dry.  A guest we were with comes on safari every year and loves January because all of the flowers are out and you have to try harder to “find” the animals.

Well folks that’s about it. We had an experience of a lifetime. We were all like kids again as we experienced the magic, power, and beauty daily of God’s rich and amazing creation. Every day I felt a thrill. Every day I felt amazed. Every day I laughed. Every day I loved. Every day was a new and different gift. Every day I woke up thinking ready to take on the day ahead. Every day I felt young. I couldn’t imagine a better present for the next decade.

It will be hard to out do this trip or my 40th birthday. Thanks to my beloved wife and kids for being with me, tolerating me, and most of all loving me for who I am with all my faults. Africa was the trip of a life but you all are my life.